MAISON LEMARIÉ
CHRISTELLE KOCHER
PHOTOGRAPHER • LOUIS DEWYNTER
MAISON LEMARIÉ IS A FRENCH MAISON D’ART SPECIALIZED IN FEATHER, FLOWER, PLEATS, COUTURE AND TEXTILE ENNOBLING. DUEL HAD THE OPPORTUNITY TO MEET WITH ARTISTIC DIRECTOR CHRISTELLE KOCHER TO DISCUSS
THE CREATION AND VISION OF THE HOUSE.
LEMARIÉ OPENED ITS DOORS TO THE PHOTOGRAPHER LOUIS DEWINTER TO REVEAL ITS UNIQUE EXPERTISE. THROUGH THIS SERIES, YOU’LL DISCOVER THE CREATIONS AND EMBELLISHMENTS FOR WHICH THEY ARE RENOWNED. AN INTIMATE LOOK AT THE CRAFTSMANSHIP THAT DRIVES THIS ICONIC MAISON D’ART.
Christelle Kocher is a french designer who graduated from central Saint Martins, she has 15 years of experience in the luxury fashion industry, working with brands such as Bottega Veneta, Dries Van Noten, Chloé, Sonia Rykiel, Martine Stibon and Emporio Armani. She became the artistic director of maison d’art Lemarié (Chanel owned craft house) in 2010. Christelle launched her own brand Koché in 2015.
What makes Maison Lemarié unique?
Founded in 1880, Maison Lemarié excels in five crafts: feather work, artificial flowers, textile creation, Lognon pleating, and Dynale textile embellishment. Blending tradition and innovation, it collaborates closely with CHANEL and other major luxury and decorative houses to create bold and contemporary works. Lemarié transforms simple materials—delicate feathers, raw fabrics—into exceptional creations.
Is there an aesthetic to Maison Lemarié? What elements define it?
Lemarié embodies a hybrid aesthetic where tradition and modernity are in constant dialogue. Punk meets timeless elegance, craftsmanship intertwines with technological innovation to create bold and refined designs. Every detail, texture, and finish reflects a quest for balance between heritage and avant-garde, whether through fabric flowers or creations that combine laser cutting and manual craftsmanship.
What does it mean to be the artistic director of a maison d’art?
Being the artistic director of a maison d’art means orchestrating multiple talents—seasoned artisans, recent graduates, or individuals in career transition—to bring to life creations that celebrate craftsmanship excellence, perfectly aligned with our expertise and the expectations of our clients. It is a role that requires a deep understanding of manual trades, a creative vision, and the ability to guide a team towards unique achievements. With 20 years of experience as a stylist-creator, I’ve been navigating between different cultural and technical universes. My career in London, Paris, and New York has provided me with a cosmopolitan and irreverent perspective, allowing me to reinterpret luxury codes while respecting the values of quality and exceptional craftsmanship.
Can you describe the creative process, from the initial idea to the final realization?
It all begins with an idea, often inspired by art, dance, or architecture. Then, our artisans explore the possibilities of materials—feathers, fabrics, dyes—mixing experimentation with technical mastery. For example, a recent dress combined hand-dyed feathers with laser cutting to create floral patterns, merging innovation with artisanal precision. Each creation becomes an artistic work full of poetry.
What innovations or new techniques would you like to explore in your future creations?
I aspire to combine tradition with new technologies, such as laser cutting, 3D printing, or the use of eco-friendly materials. These tools allow us to reinvent craftsmanship, embedding it in sustainable modernity while respecting its essence.
What do you think are the biggest challenges faced by maisons d’art like Lemarié in today’s creative landscape?
Preserving ancestral know-how while adapting it to the contemporary world is a major challenge. We need to pass on these trades to diverse generations and promote cultural and technical diversity. Being at 19M is a precious opportunity: this place fosters innovation, excellence, and collaboration. At Lemarié, craftsmanship is a timeless luxury, where each gesture reaffirms its importance in a world seeking meaning. It is in this unique environment that we continually reinvent the art of excellence, highlighting exceptional skills in the service of contemporary creation.
MAISON LEMARIÉ
DUEL MAGAZINE N°5
PHOTOGRAPHER • LOUIS DEWYNTER
PHOTO ASSITANT • EMMA TRANCHAND
PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHER • JOSEPH GOBIN
MAKEUP ARTIST • ÉLÉONORE CHARLES
